Walt Odets dead at 79

Fridayday, 10 July 2026

I wasn’t familiar with Walt Odets, a Berkeley American clinical psychologist who passed away earlier this week. An assiduous watch enthousiast, he taught himself until he was able to fully disassemble and service a watch, and wrote about it in numerous posts in the 90s and incidentally set the standard for technical watch reviews. Jack Forster posted an hommageon Facebook, while Velociphile posted a useful list of all the writings they were able to identify, including his famous review of the Rolex Explorer 14270.

Of interest for the JLC enthusiasts will be his detailed review of the Vacheron Caliber 1120 (based on the 1967 JLC caliber 920 that was also used by Patek and Audemars for a few years) and of the JLC 34mm Master Ultra Thin ref. 145.8.79.

Subtitled “a study in simple excellence”, it is essentially a love letter to the watch, its caliber and the solid work done by JLC to deliver a robust ultra thin (5mm at its thickest point) model. In his conclusion, Odet noted:

“There are very few elements of the Master Ultra Thin that constitute new technology, or, indeed, that are even unique to this watch. In fact, with the exception of the contemporary engineering of the case, the Ultra Thin is a masterpiece of classical Swiss watchmaking. But the consistency of attention to engineering details and the extraordinarily high level of manufacturing quality have produced a whole that is much more–and, aesthetically, much less–than the combination of its parts. I believe it is fair to say that this is the finest ultra-thin wristwatch ever produced. But I would also venture that this is among the very finest watches in contemporary production, regardless of complexity. The Master Ultra Thin is probably a watch that, among Swiss manufacturers, could only have been produced by Jaeger LeCoultre. There are, in all of Switzerland, no others with the design and manufacturing skills to conceive and execute this watch with such unrelenting attention to quality. For all its simplicity of appearance, the Ultra Thin is a true masterpiece equalled by only a tiny handful of other wristwatches.”

This is high praise given how Odets had no qualms candidly calling things as they were in his reviews (see the aforementioned Explorer review). The entire article is a good example of his signature exhaustivity, and his many comments about the particular technical challenges that presents an ultra thin watch makes it a great read even (especially, I would argue) for a non technical audience.

As a side note on ref 145.8.79, JLC no longer offers a truly ultra thin watch as a regular reference in its catalogue. I can’t help but wonder how Odets would have reviewed a JLC Master Ultra Thin date or a base Polaris - both powered by the 899. The caliber date from the same early 90s as the 849 that powered the 145.8.79 (itself based on the 1975 cal 839) but I wonder if he would be complimentary of JLC’s tendency to use the same caliber in totally different cases.

Addendum: kingflum on his Substack wrote a very very good overview of Odet’s writings and what he sought to understand while reviewing a watch - a highly recommended read. A psychologist by trade, it seems that Odets was primarily interested in measuring the gap between how a watch would present itself, and what was reality once the back case had been removed and the whole caliber disassembled and examined under a microscope. Fun fact: “JLC was his favorite maker”. It’s a shame we don’t have more of his writings on JLC to hear him make his case, but this seems to match the general enthousiasme JLC was garnering through the 90s and its renaissance with a series of complicated Reverso and the Master Control platform.

More broadly it would be nice if Hodinkee, Fratello or any other large publication secured an horologist among their writers. Manufacturing standards have probably matured a lot since the 90s but cost cutting might have brought its own lot of corner cutting all worth analyzing in watch reviews. Assuming, of course, that these publication would dare calling things out (something Hodinkee seems entirely unable to do, as admitted by its own founder in a moment of candor reviewing the Patek 6196 in platinum and salmon dial).

Jeanne Pellet in the 2025 Reverso Webcomic

Wednesday, 24 June 2026

I recently got my hands on a copy of the webcomic that Olivecoatdid for JLC as a part of the Made of Makers program. The webcomic was released last year at Watches and Wonders and retraces the genesis of the Reverso (what else?). It’s quite an original medium to choose and the comic itself is an enjoyable read , but what caught me by surprise is the appearance of Jeanne Pellet as a supporting character.

Pellet is for me a fascinating character in JLC’s 20th century history: she was the right hand man of Jacques-David LeCoultre for most of his tenure, at a time when women in senior ranks of the industry were simply non existent. You won’t see her name on JLC’s website or in official books like 2006’s La Grande Maison, but she was apparently had real influence at the Manufacture.

What adds to my interest is the limited information available on her. In François Jequier’s 1983 monographie De La Forge à la Manufacture Horlogère (from the furnaces to the horology factory), Pellet appears twice over the 215 pages covering the Jacques-David is era. The first time is at the start of Jacques-David’s career, the second at his death when Pellet was confirmed in her function and added to the 12-person consultative committee set to define a refresh organizational structure after the passing of Jacques-David LeCoultre.

The way Jequier introduces her is intriguing - right at the end of an overview of Jacques David Lecoultre early years: . After describing his early childhood and education, Jequier goes on to discuss how Jacques David met his future wife Jeanne-Marguerite Stock in 1901, their wedding few months later and offersa brief description of the four children they birthed between 1902 and 1908. He then transitions to (translation from French by Google translate):

The marital harmony was short-lived; Mrs. Le Coultre made no effort to adapt to her new region and lived apart from all local life. For his part, Jacques-David quickly found solace within his factory itself by forming a close bond with a young woman, sixteen years his junior, who would remain his closest collaborator for over forty years. The least that can be said is that Miss Jeanne Pellet, born in 1891 and joining Le Coultre & Cie in 1905, gradually assumed the role of éminence grise in the eyes of all the company's employees. Her strong personality and undeniable abilities profoundly marked the internal workings of the factory until her retirement in 1956. (1)

That seems like an odd way to introduce an employee of the manufacture, even if she ended up working vey close to him!

I remember reading that paragraph twice the first time I came upon it and am still unsure how much to read into it. What is Jequier telling us when he speaks of Jacques-David finding solace with this talented and strong minded (if significantly younger) female employee? You could read it as LeCoultre finding a different kind of female presence in his life with a talented assistant much younger and developing a platonic work relationship with her - Jequier does not tell us when exactly Pellet got noticed (she entered the manufacture in 1905 at age 14 when LeCoultre was already 30 and was still having children). On the other hand, this could also be a case of the two developing some years later a relationship that became an open secret in the Vallée. It seems that Jeanne Pellet never married. Maybe Jequier felt 35 year after the fact that this biographical information was worth adding to the record, if only using a chaste language appropriate for the time (and probably with Jeanne Pellet’s blessing, as he got to interview her several times during the preparation of his book). Both stories seem plausible enough and I only wish I could have a chat with Jequier to clarify this!

The other element of interest about Pellet is just what kind of position she occupied. The webcomic, while romanticizing its story (was Pellet truly wearing pants in the late 1920s in a place as traditional as the valley?), notes that Pellet start as an apprentice and I see no reason to doubt this given her age when entering the manufacture. Jequier unfortunately does not give us much more insight on her career progression or if she was ever given a different title or what her compensation might have been like later on in her career.

One breadcrumb we get in the book is in 1913, a still young Pellet (then aged 22) was registered in the books of the manufacture as an assistant in the head office together with another staff, Ms Jacot. This information comes from a list of salaries for the entire company, by rank, starting with Elie LeCoultre (administrator), Jacques David (Director), H. Sartorial, accountant, and so forth. Pellet’s salary was 130 francs - to be compared with the 170 francs Ms Jacot (who occupied the same position but was probably more senior) was paid. Workshop heads (the rank immediately under Jacques David LeCoultre) were paid 300 francs (same as the accountant) while various skilled positions were paid from 330 for a gem foreman to 190 for simpler positions. Pellet salary was on par with the bottom rug, simple employees (the night man was paid 125, an odd job man 135) but a cut above employees paid by piece (paid between 35 and 79 francs). This aligns with a mere secretarial job and was probably a function of her age, sex, and the limited pecuniary value assigned to secretarial work at the time.

But at the same time, she certainly ended her career being much more than a simple secretary. By 1948 (35 years later!) Pellet was one of three “fondés de pouvoir” of the company (meaning she had power of attorney like powers) along with Roger LeCoultre (the new owner of his father’s death) and accountant Emile Maueur. Jacques David himself, in a speech given for his 70’s birthday where he reviewed the state of the company at the end of 1946, saved

The head office must intervene to coordinate the efforts [of all the company’s divisions] and I must give an homage to Miss Jeanne Pellet who is the manufacture’s encyclopedia. (2)

LeCoultre himself knew the vast majority of his 700-ish employees on a first name basis (earlier in his career he would always take the time to walk his floor and shake the hand of each and every employee calling them by name), so the compliment seems meaningful. Pellet might have been part of many a senior meeting and probably akin to a Chief of Staff or a Chief Administrative Officer (if not COO) toward the end of run at the manufacture. This seems square off with Jequier’s final words on her - after reviewing the new org chart decided a couple of month after the death of Jacques-David, he observes:

“the entire general administration [continues to] be under the purview of Jeanne Pellet, a genuine eminence grise of the factory for decades” (3)

We’ll probably never be able to evidence clearly how far Pellet was able to raise from her humble beginnings at the manufacture, but for me she seems to be one of these unsung figures of the Jacques-David era.

Pellet retired in 1956 aged 65, and passed away in her town of Pully a few kilometers away from Lausanne in 1983, reaching the remarkable age of 92. It es she remained quite active until the very end, Jequier thanking her in a footnote for the several interviews she gave him, allowing him to glean of lot of color about particular episodes in the life of the manufacture that was absent from financial statements and meeting minutes.

If I could spend an evening with anyone from JLC’s past, Pellet would be in my shortlist, if not on top of it. She spent 40 years at the manufacture during one of its most pivotal eras, was (maybe?) very close to Jacques David and seems to have been on the whole an extraordinarily intelligent person with a strong personality. I could imagine a worse person to have a conversation with, and this makes me glad that Olivecoat had the smart idea to bring her back from the archives.

1: De La Forge à la Manufacture Horlogère, page 353: “L’harmonie conjugale dura peu peu de temps, Mme Le Coultre ne fit pas l'effort de s'adapter à sa nouvelle région et elle vécut à l'écart de toute vie locale. Pour sa part, Jacques-David trouva rapidement des compensations à l'intérieur même de sa fabrique en se liant avec une jeune fille, de seize ans sa cadette, qui restera durant plus de quarante ans sa plus proche collaboratrice. Le moins qu'on puisse dire, c'est que Mlle Jeanne Pellet, née en 1891, entrée en 1905 chez Le Coultre & Cie, joua peu à peu le rôle d'éminence grise aux yeux de tout le personnel de l'entreprise. Sa forte personnalité et ses capacités indiscutables marqueront profondément la vie interne de l'usine jusqu'en 1956, date de sa retraite.”

2: page 540: “Le Bureau doing intervenir pour coordonner tous les efforts et je dois rendre hommage à Mlle Jeanne Pellet qui est l’encyclopédie de l’usine”

3: page 545: “Toute l’administration générale dépend de la compétence de Jeanne Pellet, véritable éminence grise de l’usine depuis des dizaines d’années”

Wednesday, 24 June 2026

The really quite good Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronomètre Date

Borna Bošnjak at Hodinkee Australia has a nice a review of the Master Control Chronomètre Date. I’m not sure why the review only focuses on that model rather than the entire range (I’m going to assume maybe JLC could only make that one available in Australia for the time being?) but I think we’re all the better for it as it allows the review to touch on all the right topics: JLC being a little late to the game but offering a very elegant model, an original bracelet that hits the mark, inspiration from the 1973 Mariner Chronomètre, HPG and the latest version of cal. 899 powering the watch.

On that topic, Borna makes an interesting observation that I haven’t often seen elsewhere: JLC is not particularly good at communicating its caliber work in a legible manner. Writes Borna:

For a brand that is known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, they really don’t do themselves any favours when talking about their movements. The in-house 899 really is quite impressive, packing in all those aforementioned features into a package that’s just 3.3mm thick - but you wouldn’t know it unless you really looked.

The brand’s own literature is very light on details, and looking up “calibre 899” will yield results that match the first generation of this calibre: no silicon, and a measly 38-hour power reserve, which has become the go-to metric for judging calibre performance (for better or worse). Nothing that a simple name change couldn’t fix - the cal. 899.3 perhaps?

I agree wholeheartedly here. It’s as if JLC considered that a few specs on a watch’s description is enough to communicate effectively the work done to improve their calibers over time. Caliber 899 is the Master Control’s caliber - it launched in *1992 as the first movement to meet the 1,000 hours control standards. The caliber has obviously changed a lot over the past 34 years, but you wouldn’t know it from JLC’s communication - which seems a missed opportunity for a brand who likes to talk about the breadth of the range of calibers they built over well over a century and its effort to remain innovative in that field. It’s one thing to build authority based on an illustrious past like modern-days JLC has become an expert at, but the brand could certainly benefit from anchoring that authority to the technical work done today on the calibers of its core collections.

SJX on the Master Control Chronomètre Date

Speaking of good reviews of the Master Control Chronomètre Date, Brandon Moore at SJX also published a good read all the way back in May, making several keen observations on the watch’s dressy nature and the curiously high price of the rose gold model compared to its stainless steel counterparts.

He takes the discussion a step further on caliber 899, noting its fairly influential role at launch in 1992 and the times when JLC discreetly updated the platform to more modern standards without necessarily communicating all that much about it. For such a pillar of JLC’s modern days core range (and that’s before discussing its presence in the Master Control Ultra Thin and the Polaris ranges), this seems - again - like a missed opportunity.

JLC launches the 6th Collectibles capsule collection

Wednesday, 17 June 2026

JLC announced on Monday the launch of its 6th collectibles capsule collection. Visible in London from June 15 for a month, the collection encompasses 12 models with a decent mix or eras and models, ranging in price from 17,900 to 55,000 CHF. All models but a 1931 lady Reverso have already been sold. There’s a video on YouTube introducing the new models and the line up is also visible with various information on this page.

JLC started the Collectibles in January 2023. The concept (of which JLC offers qn overview here) was simple: a small collection of 17 of its most distinctive models from the past, fully restored and issued with an archive extract, a 3-year guarantee and a book detailing the facts of these 17 models across 558 pages. Those models offered a good balance of the usual suspects (there was a Reverso, a Memovox, a Geophysic and a Memovox Polaris) with some lesser known models like a couple of late 1960s divers. The models spanned a vast period of time (1925 through 1972), picked from a variety of designs and seemed to draw a line around the dark period of the 80s to separate the vintage period from the modern day era. The initial capsule collection launched at home in the vallée, and has since picked a different city every time, maybe to allow collectors from various parts of the world to meet with some of these watches in person. The 2nd collection launched in June 2023 in Los Angeles, the 3rd launched in Singapore in October 2024, the 4th - a ladies watch themed edition for the 100th anniversary of the DuoPlan - launched in June 2025 in Paris, and the 5th (this time an all Reverso line-up) launched January 2026 in New York City.

This 6th edition, presented to the public in London, circles back to the original concept of keeping things diverse, even if the Reverso represents slightly over half of the line-up (7 models out of 12). Among those references we find a 1972 Reverso Corvo - one of the 200 forgotten Reverso cases that started the rebirth of a model that had been largely forgotten by the Manufacture itself (the model was only one of the ,any functional concept they had birthed over the years and felt technologically antiquated nearly 40 years after its conception). A highly historically significant model if there ever was one for modern days JLC, and also offering a very original take on the dial with those minimalist (almost Bauhausian) hands and baton hour markers. Another highlight is a gorgeous 2000 white gold Reverso Sun Moon - the first time the collection allows itself to pick from modern days JLC (the Collectibles were originally marketed as picking from “the golden age of whatchmaking” - aka the 1920s-1970s period). The non-Reverso half of the collection feels a little less remarkable than editions past, maybe save for a quirky Geomatic E560 - a square certified chronometer launched in 1961 in the wake of the 1958 Geophysic, limited to 200 pieces.

I like the Collectibles collections - the watches are always gorgeous and they do convey the feeling of being extracted from a museum collection - except they’re available for you to take home if you can afford them (models in this collection are mostly in the 20-40k bracket) and are fast enough to act (as noted above all models but one are already sold three days after the press release went out). It’s a lovely way to make the maison’s heritage come alive.

Cait Bazemore at Worn and Wound wrote an article back in February touching on the origins of the project: Interviewing Matthieu Sauret, JLC’s Product & Heritage Director since 2019. His regular contacts with the auction world and various dealers made him encounter beautiful examples of JLC’s history. He came up with the concept for the Collectibles for JLC’s 190th anniversary in 2023, his team building the first capsule collection while at the same time using the Maison’s extensive archives to put together the accompanying book. The book, initially only available to buyers of the initial capsule collection, offers a richly illustrated profile of each of the 17 models with introductory blurbs by then CEO Catherine Rénier and elderly statement of the maison Franco Cologni, 88 year old at the time.

As Sauret notes in the article, the Collectibles do not exist to make money. While the watches presented are certainly not cheap, those sales probably don’t even compensate for the salary of the Heritage team responsible for tracking and acquiring potential models, to say nothing of the time spent on their restoration. Sauret notes that the project helps in two ways: it helps deepen the relationship with existing collectors who get to access curated pieces in pristine state and originated by JLC itself and it also helps educate  those affluent collectors who have bought some of JLC’s high complication pieces on the heritage of the brand and hopefully convert them into life-long friends of the House. Unmentioned in the articles, it also helps generate a bit of media coverage and strengthen the legitimacy of the brand in the Swiss watchmaking landscape along with the Patek and Vacheron of the world. Even if JLC changed hands a couple of times between 1969 and 2000, the House has kept its archives intact (not having to move your manufacture in almost two centuries probably helps!) offering a unique opportunity to identify, restore and provide ample details about these vintage models at the heart of each collection. The brand (even if it doesn’t advertise it much) is able to restore virtually any model you can bring them thanks to their archives but also their stock of old components. It’s fairly smart of them to leverage this capability into an education and communication project like this that not every other manufacture is be in a position to offer.

There is also probably a last dimension to the project: raising the profile of vintage JLC watches in general. JLC is able to offer these watches at seizable mark-ups thanks to the marketing around each launch and the safety that an official program can bring to a prospective buyer. That allows them to offer these models at prices above what they would normally reach in auction houses (for instance, a white gold Reverso identical to the Sun Moon mentioned earlier is being auctioned in Zurich from10,000CHF while JLC sold their model for a cool 29,800CHF) - which in turn helps with repricing future similar models that might come later on to market. Rising prices for your vintage models can only help with the status of the brand and the perceived future value of current JLC collections. I’m not close enough to collecting circles to know if this truly moves their decision making needle, but these are strategies that play out over years (if not decades) and in the meantime the entire community get to enjoy these beautiful objects from the Maison’s long history.

The case for a proper JLC keynote at Watches and Wonders

Saturday, 13 June 2026

As I alluded to when writing about this year’s Watches and Wonders, I was a bit underwhelmed by the “digital product presentation” that took place toward the end if the exhibition. Part of my reaction was no doubt a mismatch of my expectations with the format of the presentation. But as I watched last week’s Apple keynote at the company’s annual developer conference event, I was reminded that JLC is probably leaving on the table a good opportunity to raise its profile and build its authority in the market

On her last year as JLC CEO, Catherine Rénier did a keynote at Watches and Wonders to introduce novelties and the latest talent embarked on the made of makers program. It wasn’t perfect, but here was the CEO of the brand to tell us this year’s story about JLC and its latest product.

Jérôme Lambert did not follow up on this in 2025 or 2026, and I think it’s a mistake.

At a surface level, it seems JLC really wanted to make an impression at this year’s event by launching a lot of novelties. We got a brand new Master Chronomètre collection, some new Hybris models, some gorgeous enamel and jewelry models for Reverso - it all felt like Lambert wanted to use the event to launch a significant number of novelties (even if he kept some powder dry for the Milan Design Week event and the Miami Reverso exhibition).

On paper, the digital product presentation that JLC enthusiasts got invited to felt like something special: it’s nice to get the House’s head of patrimony to introduce us the novelties in person and even ask a few questions. The format was probably thought as opening up the exclusive sessions that VIPs and media got in person in private salons duringWatches and Wonders. At its best; the format felt like a candid access to a JLC Director. Not bad.

But at the same time, a key downside is that the whole thing felt small in scale and in execution. And fairly clunky too - the overall experience had the vibe of an internal meeting among peers with its dose of awkward moments. The technology used was Microsoft Teams (with its less than enjoyable log on process if you lost connection during the call), videos launched more or less seamlessly (with a half whispered “is this working?” when one took a little too long to start). It was certainly a positive to see the new watches in front of the camera and get a sense of their proportions in a way that marketing collateral can’t convey, but we were light-years away from a polished presentation on a stage with a solid messaging to frame each product with a compelling narrative. It didn’t leave you thinking  you had just seen the work of a leading brand in the sector. It was ultimately anecdotic - to the point that the video was never posted officially anywhere and got predicably no press of any kind.

A keynote offers the exact opposite - it gives a brand plenty of space to explain the why - what is the thinking behind each novelty, why people should care, why HPG is needed at this point in time in the arc of the Master Contol collection, and above all, why JLC is a brand in great shape worth caring (or: why choose JLC). By comparison, what JLC put together was an amicable discussion in the format of a video podcast. It’s undeniably a valuable intention - but the impact is just not the same.

The most evident contrast is with giant corporation Apple, famous for its impeccable marketing. As I like to joke sometimes, that company and its leadership made electronic devices and personal computers sexy. Think again of your 90s mobile phone or your grey plastic laptop of the time - isn’t that a small miracle? Part of that persuasion has been the ability of its senior management to put on extremely effective keynotes, maybe twice a year, to communicate directly and shape the public perception of worth of their product. JLC could use some of that muscle if the long term ambition the manufacture is to sit at the same table as Audemars, Patek or Vacheron (a maison it once owned for a while).

To those tempted to object that Apple has far more to talk about than JLC (after all thew produce several families of hardware product and a loft of software too) and can easily fill up an hour and a half, I think they’re underestimating the format and its flexibility.

This April, Lambert could have easily started a presentation and fill a rough 45-60 minutes like this:

  • intro film - the Valley of Complications.

  • Opening remark by Jérôme Lambert

  • Quick business update, also by Lambert: since he has been back at the helm for 18 month, it would have been nice to hear that last year’s rose gold Tribute model has been a smashing success, that the manufacture has turned a corner toward the end of 2025 in terms of activity before announcing he has some great updates to share with the audience today.

  • Update on the Made of Makers program

  • Presentation of the new Hybris models. The sequence starts with a short film introducing the models up close, followed by a more detailed presentation by someone from Métiers d’arts or the caliber design team to tell us about what’s special with those models.

  • Transition to Métiers d’art, with someone there to tell us about the latest effort in that department leading to a product video launching the Vallèe des Merveilles Reverso collection

  • With these two “minor” launches out of the way, time to turn to the star event and the introduction of the Master Chronomètre collection - again, with an introductory product video followed by an in-depth presentation from potentially Lionel Favre (JLC’s director of product creation and design) if the main angle of the storytelling is going to be design - or someone else depending on the story JLC wants to craft around these new models. The presentation should also probably include a short film on HPG.

  • Back to Jérôme Lambert for some final words

If this feels a little like your average Apple keynote, that’s because that’s usually the flow of these events - a quick business update to set the scene, before detailing new launches one product family at a time, with the biggest launch usually as the pièce de resistance after having covered the lesser novelties.

Such a format is costly to put together - there are the production costs of course, but also the time needed for JLC’s marketing to shape the messaging of the presentation and for Lambert and other speakers to repeat their parts until they feel natural and impactful. Perfection takes effort. But the dividends can be considerable: a 45 or 60 minutes infomercial (since that’s essentially what it is) is a perfect opportunity to communicate on JLC,  give a story to each novelty and project a brand that is confident and behave like someone with the authority of a house that given a lot to the industry in the 19th and first half of the 20th century.

And JLC could really do with that - because in luxury watchmaking like in many other places, launching good products is not enough. Potential buyers need a reason to select JLC above the myryad of quality watches available in the 9,000 - 15,000CHF segment, and being able to shake the narrative around the brand over an annual 60min presentation - if done well - is a very valuable tool. It gives JLC a rare surface to connect with its fan, remind them why they love the brand, get more personal by showcasing the various talent in the organisation (something JLC culturally like to do since its modern rebirth), and it also gives the media an opportunity to re-evaluate the brand’s standing in the industry along with its something to talk about (free adversing!).

Velociphile - in an article I have yet to write about - articulated that JLC had a problem - an authority problem.  JLC is lucky to have a powerful tagline - the watchmakers’s watchmaker. It’s memorable, unique, and immediately confers some domain authority. It is also inherited from its years as a vendor of ébauches and other horlogerie en blanc (see Johann Rupert’s recent tirade at the Richemont annual result conference last month) - in other words, a business it left behind about a century ago when starting to produce complete watches under its brand name. This technological authority (1400 calibers,‘430 patents, etc) is not visible in JLC’s current core ranges - a good example is how Polaris is fitted with dress watch calibers (Cal. 899) that do not take advantage of the larger case size. JLC today is at pain to explain what makes a Master Ultra Thin, a Rendez-Vous and a Polaris special beyond “we used to provide ébauches to half the industry 80 years ago. Supercharging communication around the all-important annual Watches and Wonders event might help address some of these branding problem - if management dares to be more ambitious on that front than a quick live Teams presentation.

  By Renaud

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JLC launches the Or Déco collection

Saturday, 30 May 2026

Jaeger Lecoultre used the Reverso exhibition in Miami to announce the Or Déco collection - 5 new watches in gold expanding last year’s well received Tribute Small Second rose gold (ref. Q713216J). Fratello has a good overview of the launch on their site.

As it sits, the collection now offers a white gold variant of the original, three models with gems (2 white gold, 1 rose gold) called Or Déco cocktail, and a simpler, smaller model without the small second at 6 o'clock called the Or Déco Solo Tempo available in rose gold only. For those unaware, ‘or’ is French for gold and the material is indeed the star of these models. The gem models are limited runs (30 each), a common approach for this kind of price bracket (which is not disclosed but certainly runs in the 6 digits). The Solo Tempo is a permanent reference.

I’m not close enough to JLC to know for sure if the original model, launched at last year’s Watches and Wonders, was meant as a one-off project or if there was already an entire potential range in the works. Either way, it’s clear that Jérôme Lambert can recognize a success when he sees one and he did the logical thing: build on top of it.

The finely grained dials and elegant Milanese bracelet continue to look gorgeous in white gold. It’s a nice alternative for those who appreciate the originality of the model, but would rather go for something slightly more understated.

While the original pink gold Tribute was not launched at Watches and Wonder under the ‘ Or Déco’ branding, an interview of Lambert in July 2025 with Fratello already mentioned it: One imagines that the reception on those first few months must have been good enough for management to start planning an extension 8 months later.

The addition of a Solo Tempo model (a new branding that may be used for other variations in the same case size for future new Tribute models?) is derived from the original smaller-size ref. Q713216J launched in September 2024. It makes for a nice entry point for those keen on a smaller case (or preferring the original 1930s dimensions) or a more affordable option, even if in this instance the price difference seems modest (roughly 10% - 36’500 CHF instead of 40,300). JLC seems to now make a point of offering an entry point to their core ranges with a smaller, more affordable reference : Reverso started the trend with ref. Q713216J in late 2024, Master Control introduced a limited edition 36mm model in late 2025 (ref. Q4008520, limited to 500 pieces), and recently Polaris soft-launched a 40mm model (ref Q9128981).

Speaking of more affordable entry point, there’s no stainless steel model - probably both for practical and strategic reasons. The whole point of the range is the sophisticated Milanese bracelet which seems complex to construct - I believe Lambert recently commented construction costs on a stainless steal version would simply not make sense commercially. I also suspect that JLC is happy to meet success of this kind with a gold reference and may not want to dilute this with a stainless steal model if they want to continue to rise their average selling point or elevate their positioning towards Vacheron, Länge and Patek. Those wanting the Tribute aesthetics in stainless steel in a nice monochrome vibe can turn to the existing Tribute Monoface we just mentioned, or its full-sized Q3908410 duo-face sibling with a white opaline dial.

On the whole the Or Déco is a nice success story for JLC - it’s gotten some nice exposure for the brand and adds to the Tribute sub-range, just like JLC seems to have pursued in its quest to move upward in the market.

It also seems to fall squarely into Lambert’s mantra of “recognize, recognize, recognize, surprise”. This leitmotiv comes from an article that Carson Chan wrote on his website Watch Professor after meeting Lambert at Watches and Wonders this year.

One of the strongest moments in our conversation came when we discussed icons and innovations. Jaeger-LeCoultre has true icons: Reverso, Master Control, and a long history of important technical and aesthetic work. The challenge with icons is always the same. If you change too much, you risk losing the identity. If you change too little, the watch becomes static.

Lambert summarized the approach beautifully: “Recognize, recognize, recognize, surprise”

(…) An icon must first be recognizable. The DNA, the style, the technical signature - these things must remain visible. But recognition alone is not enough. Lamber was very direct about it: a dead fish is still recognizable, but it has no life. A watch canoe familiar and still fail to create desire. There has to be tension between heritage and inventiveness”

Lambert’s sentence is a bit awkward taken out of the flow of the conversation, I wish we had that on tape. But I think Chan got the gist of it anyway - the winning formula is to take a well established product, and every now and then give it a solid creative twist. Chan continues:

I also brought up the Milanese bracelet on the Reverso. Lambert agreed that it is a good example. It is surprising, not strange. The Art Deco spirit of the Reverso and the character of a mesh bracelet have certain historical and stylistic relationship: The result feels unexpected, but it also makes sense:

JLC has done Milanese bracelets before, mostly in the 60s on some dressy pieces - but last year’s unapologetically gold Reverso tribute was a real spark of originality for the collection - and it went down very well indeed.  The Or Deco collection is merely harping on that impulse. It’s good to see the brand take some creative risks with its designs, and I hope Lionel Favre and his product creation and design team will have more in store for JLC in the near future.

Richemont announces annual results, put rumors of JLC sale to sleep

Saturday, 23 May 2026

Richemont published yesterday its annual results for the financial year ending 31 March 2026. In broad strokes: the Specialist Watchmakers division did not have a great year, but things finally picked up in late 2025 and early 2026, including for JLC. Owner Johann Rupert was present and gave answers in an entertaining Q&A, including an almost 10 minute aside on JLC.

WATCH SPECIALISTS HAVE A FLAT YEAR, JLC DOES OK

Richemont announced overall sales in progress of 5%, totaling € 22.4 billion. This figure hides some of the headwinds outside of the Group’s control, in particular currency fluctuations (in constant currency exchange rates, sales growth would have reached double digit at 11%). Profit rose to € 3.5 billion, up 27% compared to the previous year. Not bad.

La Compagnie Financière Richemont is organized in 3 divisions: jewelry, watch specialists and ‘other’ (basically fashion and accessories). The jewelry business, made of (in alphabetical order) Buccellati, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Vhernier is clearly the star of the show, bringing in € 16.5 billion in sales compared to the Watch Specialists group’s 3.1 billion and the ‘Other’’s 2.7. The Jewelry Maisons had a good year, with sales progressing by 8% (14% in constant exchange rate), profit coming at € 5 billions and operating margins at a cosy 30%.

The picture is quite different for the Specialist Watchmakers group which pools Vacheron Constantin, IWC, JLC, Panerai, A. Lange & Söhne, Piaget, Roger Dubuis and Baume & Mercier. Sales were “up modestly” at € 3.1 billion. Richemont does not break down results by Maisons, but the situation seems to have been contrasted within the division with the annual report explicitly mentioning a “sequential improvement in the second half of the year for A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin”. The report further noted that this performance was underpinned by novelties like the Reverso Tribute models (which were at the heart of the announcements made at Watches and Wonders 2025. Looks like the Polaris novelties launched through 2025 might not had met the same success).

This rebound of activity in late 2025 and early 2026 align with Jérôme Lambert’s comment to Le Temps back in March, when he mentioned that employees at the manufacture had been back to working full time after taking some measures to reduce hours in 2024 and first half of 2025. This also seems to square with the annual Morgan Stanley report prepared with the help of Olivier Müller at LuxeConsult, which seem to indicate JLC holding steady (doing less well than Richmond’s largest Watch Specialist Vacheron Constantin, but having been able to progress sales on the back of diminishing volumes).

As the financial report comments, it’s been a challenging past 24 months for the watch industry at large, and it’s good to see JLC being among the brands benefiting from an improvement in the market. This also seems to dispel  the thesis that Richemont might consider selling JLC because of a disappointing level of performance: the brand seems to be among the “good pupils” in the Watch Specialists division.

One interesting tidbits in these results (besides serving as a reminder that the Watch Specialists are a much smaller group than the Jewelers group) is that margins have just not been good. While the Jewelry Maisons can boast operating margins of 30%, the Watch Specialist group’s margin came at 3% this year (5% in 2025). This number could hide significant disparities among brands, but at least it gives an idea of how different the landscape is for watchmakers compared to jewelers. Market-wise, the Americas was the clear source of growth (sales were up 12%), compensating in part for declines in Asia and Japan (-12% and -14%) respectively. Again, the mix for JLC could be quite little different than the rest of the Watch Specialist group, but this gives idea of the general backdrop to JLC’s encouraging rebound (and also aligns with JLC selectively closing some boutiques in China during the year).

Once the initial financial results announcement over, the meeting moved to the Q&A part, with Johann Rupert taking on most questions from the bank analysts present.

“THIS NONSENSE ABOUT JAEGER”

The 75 year old owner of Richemont is quite the character - an entrepreneur at heart, not afraid to give an honest piece of his mind to his audience if the occasion arises. The atmosphere was jovial though; with Rupert on a first name basis with most analysts in the room. I’d recommend listening to the whole segment (the video of the meeting and the written transcript are available on Richemont’s website) to get a sense of the character if you’ve never heard him. .

Things got interesting for JLC observers when Luca Solca, a Bernstein analyst, referred to the sale of Baume & Mercier announced early in 2026 and asked if other simplification was in the cards. At 1:00:35 in the recording, Luca Solca asked:

“My second question was on the perimeter. I think the market and investors saw with pleasure the simplification, the business simplification you have been bringing forward, the divestiture of Baume & Mercier. Can you tell us maybe how the other divisions' businesses are doing and if there is any further latitude and opportunity for simplification? Thank you very much.”

Rupert started his reply with Baume & Mercier, sold in January to Italian multi brand distributor Damiani:

“You know - it’s sad, because Baume was one of our very first Maisons. You know, qt times one must realize that for Baume, we are not their best owner. They need more flexibility. They need to — crudely put, they need to be able to act more “entrepreneurial”. We have very fixed cost structure and I think the new owners… Baume was always an Italian brand. It always did very very very well [in Italy]. We wish them luck! We’ve tried. And sometimes it is better that somebody else does.”

Without skipping a beat, he then turned to the other side of the question, taking it as a polite hint at the rumors that Richemont could be looking to sell JLC:

“This nonsense about Jaeger. I mean - please, how can you - who’s with UBS here? You apparently believe what you read there.”

(an analyst from UBS in the room tries to push back)

“Please - whoever says that, never trust them again. There are two or three of them or, bloggers, who really do not have a clue and are spurring nonsense. For us (points to Nicolas Bos and Burhart Grund, Richemont’s CEO and CFO sitting alongside him) this doesn’t mean a damn thing but imagine if you’re a worker at Jaeger. It’s unfair. And sooner or later somebody will actually sue them because it’s a lie. It was never discussed. In fact - you want to know how we got the whole group.”

Rupert then spent a few minutes (from the 1:03:15 mark onward) telling the story of how he took an interest in mechanical watch (Richemont already had Cartier at the time but the catalogue most mostly made of quartz watches), how the sale of Les Maisons Horlogères by VDO represented the last great opportunity to enter the market, and how he won the bid against Swatch Group after a visit to his “absolute hero” Gunter Blümlein in Schaffhausen (apprently pronounced “Shafhoose” if you want a taxi driver to accept your instruction to drive you there). Bringing his story to the conclusion he wanted to reach:

“Part of the extreme price we paid [for LMH] was for [Gunter] and then he had bone cancer. It was an absolute tragedy. But the key that he used, and I think you must all understand this, the key that he used, the expertise that he used, is Jaeger Lecoultre. And up to today, Jaeger is the watch company, the Maison, the manufacture, that can do nearly every component of a watch except maybe leather straps. They can do everything. In a sense they have helped so many other Maisons, you know, if somebody else run into trouble. So there is no way in which it would ever have been contemplated. And I am saying this to you so when you hear these stories, please, do not listen - because it’s rubbish. We’re very loyal to them, they make phenomenal watches.

[to his son Anton Rupert, a Non-executive director of Richemont sitting next to him]: I mean, what have you got on your arm Anton?

Anton Rupert: The Cardinal Points Vacheron Overseas

Johann Rupert: Okay. But that’s only because you and I cannot get the steel because we are waiting for the steel Jaeger. They made a new steel watch which is phenomenal - the new Master line, that is *spectacular.

It’s not their fault, it is our fault that we haven’t been able to explain to the rest of the world that it is. It is the watchmaker’s watchmaker. You speak to watchmakers, they look up to Jaeger. So trust me, it’s… - I won’t use the word in front of ladies - but don’t believe it.

Essentially, Rupert went into a fairly personal and emotional sidebar (calling Blümlein his hero twice) to explain that Jaeger is certainly not and has never been in the last few month for sale. This, associated with the fairly good results of JLC (relative to the rest of its division) should put any rumor to rest now and for the near future.

Some thoughts ahead of Richemont’s full year results

Thursday, 21 May 2026

Back in February, luxury industry insider Miss Tweed wrote about a rumor: Jérôme Lambert might be in the process of forming a pool of investors to take JLC private from Richemont. The news got some traction on various JLC fan pages and forums - but publications like Fratello or Hodinkee chose not to amplify it. 

I see two aspects to that discussion: Richemont might be open to sell JLC, and Lambert would be leading a newly independent entity. I don’t have a crystal ball, but I think there are a few factors that make this scenario somewhat possible. 

GOING PRIVATE

In late 2024, Richemont took everyone by surprise by replacing Catherine Rénier with Jerome Lambert as CEO of Jaeger LeCoultre. These rotations are not uncommon within Richemont, but seeing a senior executive leave their position at Group level to head a brand is certainly less common.

When the rumor broke, many commentators (including the podcast I mentioned earlier this week) felt that this might be a sign Richemont think JLC has little more potential to offer. I think there’s a big to recency bias at play - Richemont had just announced it was selling its entry-level brand Baume & Mercier, in a move universally seen as removing a brand Richemont felt didn’t align with the rest of the portfolio.

Many fan de JLC feel that the recent decade has seen the brand lose some of its personality and/or rely on price increase rather than a more ambitious strategy. And so they see the news of a potential sale as confirmation that the manufacture may not be doing well.

Richemont does not break down the sale of its watch brands and reliable data remains elusive. JLC seems to have slipped a little compared to other names on the leaderboard of Morgan Stanley’s annual report on the industry and has certainly not grown at the same pace as sister brand Vacheron. But - we can also consider the trajectory of Catherine Rénier, who was JLC’s CEO from 2018 through 2024 and who left the helm of the manufacture to become CEO of Van Cleef and Arpels. Regardless of what one might think of her tenure, you usually don’t get rewarded with a leadership position in a business about thee times the size of the one you’re leaving if you did a poor job there. I suspect Rénier’s performance at the head at JLC, at least financially and compared not just to Vacheron (definitely the one good pupil of the class at the time) but the whole watch specialists portfolio, might actually have been at least satisfactory.

The other thing to consider - and I don’t mean that as a knock against other sister brands - is that if Richemont want to continue to offload brands for strategic reasons, other names like Panerai or IWC could fit that bill just as well, especially if we consider sales performance in recent years. Selling a storied name like JLC seems like an odd choice when you have other options at hand.

SHINE BRIGHT LIKE A MANUFACTURE

What might differ JLC from other candidates for a sale is its price tag, probably larger than if Richemont was to sell other accessible luxury brands in its portfolio. One reason to sell something valuable is if you need the money. Now of course, Richemont is not exactly on the verge of bankruptcy - so one rumor that has made the round is that the Group might be seeking to purchase a large independent name requiring a large amount of money. And selling JLC might be one way to secure those plans.

What name out there might be “on the market” and worth selling such a valuable manufacture as JLC? Patek and Rolex are certainly not for sale. It’s hard to imagine the Swatch group putting up for sale anything Richemont might be interested in. Zenith would not really add anything compared to JLC. Richard Mille is a nice name but seems too close to Roger Dubuis in term of target market. This leaves us with another famous name from the Vallée de Joux which, while not officially up for sale (at least as far as non-insiders know) is still mostly family owned. It’s not too difficult to imagine that some of the Audemars Piguet shareholding might be keen on cashing out on the company and feel like Richemont could be a decent steward compared to the LVMHs of the world. For Richemont, and with all due respect for JLC, trading la LeCoultre for Audemars Piguet would certainly represent a step up.

Again - I don’t have a crystal ball and the above remains pure speculation. That said, it could fit quite nicely with the choice of Lambert as a CEO at this juncture.

A WHOLE NEW ADVENTURE FOR LAMBERT?

If 2025 was fairly quiet, 2026 has been extremely active for JLC with an avalanche of novelties at Watches and Wonders - including a brand new collection put together barely within a year - some impressive new Atmos in Milan and new Reversos building on the success of last year’s Tribute Gold Small Seconds. Lambert has always had internally the reputation of someone relentlessly pushing the business forward - but he seems to really have been particularly active since his return, as if on a mission to prove the potential of the company. Turns out this could have been his mandate when he accepted to lead once again the manufacture.

At age 55 when the announcement was made, Lambert probably has (at least) a solid decade of career ahead of him. It’s entirely plausible that after having enjoyed some years at the leadership of a holding company like Richemont, Lambert could seek a more entrepreneurial challenge. Spending his final decade in his career leading an independent JLC could offer him just that, in a company he already knows inside out and helped build some 20-odd years ago.

Whether JLC could be sold to a competitor or go independent remain an open question. In a way, one could imagine that Richemont would not be too keen to put one of its most storied brands in the hands of LVMH, Swatch Group or even Partners Group (the Private Equity firm controlling Breitling). Buying an independent while ceding JLC to a pool of independent investors (including Lambert himself) feels like a more elegant scenario - even if I have no idea if Lambert actually has the means to pull off such a plan.

The good news is, Richemont will announce its annual results in just over 24 hours. Their investor call would be the perfect place for an announcement if one has been in the works over the last 18 months.

THE RISE AND RETREAT OF JAEGER-LECOULTRE - CAN GOING INDEPENDENT SAVE THE BRAND?

Monday, 18 May 2026

Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly of Collective Horology had a fun speculative conversation back in early March. This was after rumors bubbled to the surface of Richemont possibly letting CEO Jérôme Lambert take JLC independent. 

The discussion is 45 minutes long in the usual friendly tone of the Openwork podcast and well worth listen. In terms of retreat following the turn-around operated under Gunter Blümlein at VDO and Les Manufactures Horlogères, they set the scene as such:  

In the early 2000s, after joining the Richemont Group, JLC was the number one watch brand by sales in the Richemont Group. Bigger in sales than IWC, than Vacheron, than Lange. (…) And it was a top 10 brand overall by sales in the time that Morgan Stanley has been reporting this. So from 2018 until now, JLC has slipped from number 10 in the industry by overall sales, down to about number 16 as of the latest reporting.

Their main culprit, in their view, is Richemont - and a rise in prices that may or may not feel justified. 

Richemont’s portfolio of “specialist watchmakers” is made of Baume & Mercier (well, up to recently anyway), Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, JLC, Panerai, Piaget and Roger Dubuis. As details by many a scholar like Pierre-Yves Donzé in his history of the Swatch Group, the Groups that emerged at the turn of the century aim to cover various segments of the market with their brands and tend, as a result, to have them not fight between themselves for the same clients. And so Rapkin and Reilly make the argument that one reason why JLC may not have been able to fully scale their wings is that they can’t go toe to toe with the likes of Vacheron or Lange and have to contend with their current segment alongside IWC or Panerai. And going independent would allow them to do more risk taking.

I kinda see the argument - but at the same time I’m not sure JLC necessarily receives strict limitations from the holding in terms of what they can do (and those familiar with the Blümlein years will remember that some ideas from JLC were “stolen” to be used by Lange!). JLC has been working hard on developing and advertising their Métiers d’Arts and the High Horology workshop - things one would expect to be squarely associated with Vacheron and Lange. Should there be strict rules of no direct competition, why would JLC be allowed to release new Grande Tradition and Hybris references? I do agree though that the past decade has been fairly safe design-wise.

They discuss the Polaris in passing, and I will add that JLC’s foray in the sports watch segment in the Richemont era offers an interesting example of aversion to risk. In 2002, needing sport swatch in the collection, JLC launched the Master Compressor. That collection was eventually phased out maybe a decade ago, and later replaced in 2018 by the current Polaris collection. Both collections took inspiration from the same original 1950s watch, yet one came out with a strong personality while the other feels far less daring. I agree with Rapkin and Reilly that JLC has forgotten how to take risks in recent years, but I’m just not sure this has to do with being part of a large conglomerate. 

Add a lack of models with a strong personality with prices rising faster than inflation (or direct competition) and you end up in a difficult place where you’re competing with your peers with one hand tied behind your back due to your elevated prices but also can’t fight on equal footing with the aspirational luxury brands starting at 20k because your core collection lacks a defining personality.

Is the solution going independent? I remain a little skeptical that a lack of autonomy is what’s weighting JLC down at the moment. Rapkin and Reilly see two broad potential strategies ahead: either reverse some of the price hikes and offer top quality watchmaking at a competitive price, or continue to go upmarket but in that case, really lean into the brand’s design language to give it distinctive characteristics (beyond the well-known Reverso).

Watches and Wonders 2026

Thursday, 14 May 2026

At Watches and Wonder 2025, JLC launched 5 Reversos: the “price upon request” Tribute Minute Repeater, the more approachable Tribute Geographic and Duo-face Small Seconds with a black dial, a pink gold Milanese loop Tribute Small Seconds and a diamond studded Reverso One. Compared to the three Duomètres and the refreshed Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar announced in 2024, this seemed like a decent line up. Part of the reason for this measured number of novelties was because the launches were planned across the full calendar year.

Things seem to have changed for 2026, with a significantly augmented number of novelties.

THE VALLEY OF INVENTIONS

Like in years past, JLC used an overall theme to underpin its booth and provide a narrative for the launch of its novelties. Continuing with past trends of closely associating the manufacture with its geographic locale, this year’s theme was “the Valley of Inventions”, framing the Vallée de Joux (and by extension one of its two most famous residents) as a space rich with innovations. As usual a short film accompanied the campaign, displaying for 4 minutes enchanting views of woody mountaintops and the people at the origin of the manufacture - complete with a campaign logo. Geographic origin - and the authenticity that comes with the theme - remain a cornerstone of JLC’s communication.

Also like years past, the booth had an experiential space providing a link with the brand’s ‘Made of Makers’ programme. Last year visitors were treated to lovely chocolate pastries creations by Mathieu Davoine at the 1931 Polo Club. For 2026, JLC went savory with elegant cheese creations by Gilles Varone at the JLC Chalet. I didn’t get to try this year’s delicacies but if they were anything like in previous years, these must have been quite delicious indeed.

At a personal level, I often feel a little conflicted about what is ultimately niceties. On the one hand, all these concepts make the experience of visiting the booth more engaging and more memorable. They help JLC offer more than just a few watch to admire and help create an entire brand universe. If you take the time to sit down and enjoy the intricate creations on offer, you walk away having spent a lovely time regardless of if you saw any watch that really tickled your fancy. The ‘Made of Makers’ program helps reinforce the idea that JLC is first and foremost a manufacture and the natural home for creatives and makers of all kinds. The film provides a cinematic touch and helps hammer home year the idea of JLC being the inheritor of a special place at the heart of Swiss horology. It’s about educating newcomers to the world of luxury watches and building up the brand year after year. 

On the other hand, I do wonder how much of these messages are already carried by the products themselves, and if piling up marketing concepts doesn’t end up diluting the core message. In 2026 alone, we have ‘Made of Makers’, ‘The Valley of Inventions’, ‘The Valley of Merveilles’, ‘The Watchmaker of Watchmakers’. That’s a lot of messages, and I can’t help wonder how many prospective buyers are able to walk away from the JLC booth (or its website) with a clear idea of what owning a JLC watch should mean to them.

THE MASTER CONTROL CHRONOMETRE

But enough of the marketing conversation and let’s talk about the products. As fans will know, JLC approach Watches and Wonders in 2-year cycles: there are Reverso years and non-Reverso years. 2026 was the later (2025 had The 1931 Polo Club - I wonder how close to a lawsuit Ralph Lauren’s legal department must have been), and the big news was a new addition to the Master Control line, with the Master Control Chronometre collection.

I covered this novelty in a separate post so I won’t spend too much time on it here. On the whole, the new watches seem to have made a very good impression judging by the positive feedback in the press and the interest of potential clients. I certainly found them lovely addition to the catalogue - elegant, fresh, yet also immediately recognizable as JLCs for anyone familiar with the brand. JLC took a bit of a risk by debuting three watches from the get-go (the original Master Control started by itself in 1992), mitigated by the fact the production had yet to start in earnest by the time these watches were revealed.

Something that hasn’t been much commented upon is how fast this collection came to market. Lambert came back a little over a year ago - that’s not a lot of time to design from the ground up a brand new collection like this. This came with some trade-off: only a very small number of prototypes were available to show to VIPs and media at Watches and Wonders, so much so that the few models available had to be rotated in boutiques across the world so everyone could see them in the flesh. It also caused some initial confusion, the pre-production models not featuring the adjustment clasp that will be present in production models to be delivered in a few months. As capable as the manufacture is, JLC is no Apple - producing a brand new collection at scale from day one is just not in the cards. But on the whole, the efforts to have the Master Control Chronometre launch at W&W 2026 rather than later in the year or in 2027 remain testament to a brand clearly on the offensive .

THE HIGH END

As often, JLC supplemented its core range novelties with High Horology models meant to display the manufacture’s full scale of capabilities. 2026 saw two Master Hybris models and one Master Grande Tradition introduced.

The Hybris models are not a collection per se but a name assigned to the company’s most technologically impressive watches. They’re part of the High Watchmaking offering of the brand, produced by its own production team separate from the rest of the production. Hybris-series watches function a bit like concept cars in the auto making industry: while they won’t sell in meaningful numbers or really add to the bottom line given the costs involved, they help give visibility to the manufacture’s technical credentials. They also give engineering teams an opportunity to stretch their muscle and, potentially, earn a few lessons in the process that might be later used in normal production.

Hybris models, up to this year, came in two flavors: Hybris Mechanica for models pushing the envelop on technical innovation, and Hybris Artistica for models displaying exceptional artistic work (think: métiers d’arts being given the spotlight).

2026 is giving us one new Hybris Mechanica, the Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Tourbillon. Powered by calibre 362 and its 593 components (that’s almost twice the number of components found in the brand’s dress watch perpetual calendar), the overall presentation is reminiscent of the other Hybris Mechanica in the catalogue, the cal. 362 - but in rose gold and open work.

I tend to no feel too attracted by watches of that kind - their price point is such that they mostly feel like a curiosity, and JLC usually sticks to a fairly classical visual style. That said - the use of transparent sapphire bridges is pretty cool, and it’s fairly mind-boggling to consider that the watch offers a minute repeater, a tourbillon and an automatic caliber all within the 8.25mm of its case. We’re not Altiplano territory but that’s not the point, and the end result reminds everyone that JLC remain one of the leaders in the domain of ultra thin watches.

There was another Hybris watch introduced in the line up, but that one came with a twist, intruding a whole new category in the Hybris family: the Master Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon à Stratosphère. This new Inventiva denomination gathers models presenting particular technological breakthrough - in this case a triple-axis tourbillon able to cover 98% of all possible positions for the component. JLC described it as “a tourbillon within another tourbillon within yet another tourbillon” (shame they couldn’t come up with that watch and place it on Christopher Nolan’s Inception like they placed a Reverso in one of his Batman movies). Very impressive indeed even if one can wonder if we are slowly entering the realm of Gilette marketing arms race..

Jokes aside, the watch looks right at home with some blue grand feu enamel that echoes the Master Grande tradition Q52334E1 - and the tourbillon’s close up pictures is a thing to behold with its 198 components occupying less than 2cm3. The future will tell us if more innovations of that kind is on the way, but the fact that JLC felt compelled to create a third denomination in the Hybris family seems to indicate that the House is dead serious about pushing things further.

Last of the three high-end novelties, the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date (Ref. Q4202480). Although this is not indicated on the JLC website, this is a limited edition of a hundred. This time JLC opted for an asymmetrical dial that feels busier than usual and a little different from the current Master Grande Tradition collection. The logo at 3 o’clock is somewhat reminiscent of the Master Grande Tradition stylings of the 2000s, but the business of the dial - at least in pictures - seems a little gratuitous. Does the dial really need those visible screws at 2 o’clock? That 24hr wheel at 12 that follows home time? To me, there’s something about the way this watch tries to show a lot that echoes cheaper watches trying to look complicated. On the inside we find the excellent caliber 978, equipped with a titanium tourbillon that won a very competitive concours de chronométrie in 2009, and remain to this day the best single-axis tourbillon on record according to Stéphane Belmont, JLC’s Patrimony Director. This might be q model that might truly reveal itself in person rather than online (a complex dial might work better on a 42mm canvas in real life - proportions matter), and might seduce a different crowd than the rest of the collection.

REVERSO

As much as this was a non-Reverso year, JLC’s workshops still found the time to put its high horology and gem-setting teams to work with no less than 7 new Reverso - 4 men enamel and 3 women gem-studded models. These kind of products are not new to the Maison, but the entire set could easily make you forget that 2026 is not about the Reverso.

These watches (especially the colorful Reverso Ones) are simply beautiful works of art, up there with the best of them, and are presented under a new banner called “La Vallée des Merveilles” (tm), seemingly signaling that the Maison intends to make such models a permanent fixture in the JLC catalogue. Métiers d’arts have been a key pillar in JLC’s strategy for a long time and Lambert might just be doubling-down on that. Considering the kind of money Cartier or the jewelry arm of Richemont seem to bring in, Iit’s hard to fault him and the result is simply a delight for the eyes.

THE SOFT LAUNCHES

As if all of the above was not enough, JLC also debuted a handful of references meant to offer more variations of existing models. These were not advertised but made their silent apparition on the JLC website at the same time as the other novelties. In no particular order, we got:

  • A new Reverso Classic Monoface in 35.78 x 21mm (ref. Q2608442 for the stainless steel, leather band version)

  • A new Reverso Classic Monoface Origin in 32.5 x 16.3 mm (ref. Q3878560)

  • A new Reverso Classic Duetto in 34.2 x 22 mm (ref. Q2668123)

  • A new Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds in white in 42.9 x 25.5mm (ref. Q3908410)

  • A new Polaris Date in 40mm (ref . Q9128981)

  • A new Rendez-vous Classic Hour-Minutes (ref. Q3658110)

I like that the brand is being intentional about its launches - the above products were all ready for release in April, but JLC made sure they wouldn’t canibalize the attention from the novelties that mattered.

Notably, the manufacture seems to want to offer more - more sizes, more variations, and in some cases extent more price points. There’s always a tension at a manufacturer between trying to cover as much of the market as possible (heck, that was even the leitmotiv of the industry a century ago) and keeping cost down and your product range cohesive by not trying to be everything to everyone.

JLC seemed to have swung a bit in the direction of a standardized product shelf under Catherine Rénier. The limited edition 36mm Master Control (ref. Q4008520) launched in December was an interesting foray into bringing back more options and it’s nice to see new management follow through.

DIGITAL PRESENTATION

Back in 2024, Rénier presented a 30 minutes keynote early in the Watches and Wonders week. This wasn’t renewed by Lambert in 2025, so it was a pleasant surprise when a little ahead of this year’s exhibition week, JLC invited the public (via its website and its mailing list) to register for a ‘Digital Presentation’ on the Saturday of Watches & Wonders.

The technical set-up was a little different this time around. No live broadcast via the Watches and Wonders website (followed by a replay that’s still online a year later), but rather a Microsoft Teams invite. It’s not clear to me if Watches and Wonders didn’t offer technical support this year for similar keynotes to take place, but let me take it out of the way: this set up was awkward, especially if like me you were on the go at the time of the presentation and with a poor network. To access the call, you had to identify yourself through a log on process - think of a work meeting where you have to input manually your name and credential rather than just click on a link. That’s not the best experience at the best of time - and it only gets punishing if you have to start from scratch every time you lose connection for a few seconds. This was not ideal.

This year’s presentation was not led by Jerome Lambert but featured instead Stéphane Belmont and hosted by Nicolas (Fermont? There was no formal intro at the start of the call…), JLC’s Patrimony Director and Communication Director respectively (if that was him indeed). The format was also radically different: rather than a keynote, this was more of a hands-on product presentation in the same way a VIP would have experienced by visiting the JLC booth and getting to sit down with Belmont to discuss the novelties in person. 

At face value, it’s nice to see faces beyond Lambert take the microphone and offer people an experience similar to what one would get had they been able to visit the JLC booth in Switzerland. It’s also nice that the call was live, allowing those attending to raise questions on the spot. The exercise felt casual and congenial and lasted in all about 30 minutes. While no video has been posted on any official channel, a generous soul captured the feed and put it on YouTube where it is still visible (for the time being at least). 

I’ll be honest: this felt a bit of a step back step-back compared to 2024. I was expecting a keynote-style product presentation, and what was shared instead was something far less polished (“is this working?”) and doing far less for the Maison than an event could have. I have two major issues with this event:

  • the event was scheduled on Saturday - a full 4 days after novelties had been announced to the media and on JLC’s own website. With generous information on all products available at launch; there was little left for Belmont to cover that hadn’t been available elsewhere. I understand that the general public is more likely to be available on a Saturday - but if you’re trying to create excitement around a launch, that’s probably not the way to do it. 

  • The meeting invitation and confirmation email failed to set the right expectations. I’ll save my thoughts around the opportunity of a proper JLC keynote for a separate post, but it would have been useful for the messaging advertising the event to be crystal clear that the presentation was going to be a hands-on presentation of the novelties (by Belmont no less - this also wasn’t clear!) rather than let people imagine a more ambitious event in line with Rénier’s presentation 2 years prior. This would have prevented disappointment among enthusiasts expecting more while letting the right audience self select for this.

I also have some quibbles with some of the blind spots of the presentation itself - the two Hybris watches were simply not there (and neither were they mentioned, strangely) and while discussing the new Master Chronometre range, Belmont did not follow up on his colleague’s segway on the HPG hallmark and instead suggested the audience to check JLC’s website to learn more. These gaps felt bizarre and left me wanting.

On the plus side, it was a nice opportunity to see the watches in the metal and get a sense of their general proportions. Not everyone was able to travel to Switzerland or even has a JLC boutique in their vicinity and this presentation had the merit of filling that gap.

JLC IS FIRING ON ALL CYLINDERS

On the whole and as an outsider looking in, W&W 2026 felt like a very good edition for la LeCoultre. The new Master Chronometre collection landed well, Lambert and managers at JLC spared no effort through the week engaging with VIPs and various media, and the volume of novelties was impressive.

This didn’t happen by accident - there seems to be a real shift in strategy in wanting to launch headline novelties at Watches & Wonders rather than pepper them over the course of the entire year. This also required a sustained effort from the various teams that make the manufacture so everything could be ready by the time April came around. Watches and Wonders is always an intense time of the year for JLC staff but this year I’m hearing felt extra instance.

The industry was taken by surprise when Richemont announced in late 2025 that Jérôme Lambert would become once again JLC’s CEO. This year’s exhibition was the first with Lambert fully back at the helm of the Manufacture, and the least we can say is that JLC is firing on all cylinders. And that’s before even taking into consideration the Milan Design Week event that saw multiple Atmos models launch, or the Reverso cocktail debuted at the MET. Core range, métiers d’arts, High Horology, Atmos - everyone is contributing to a very prolific year to date and Lambert has been driving his teams hard to get to this result. That’s apparently always been his modus operandi, even during his first run at the head of the company. We can’t tell yet if he intends to continue to drive the manufacture this hard for the rest of the year. But on the strength of Watches and Wonders 2026 alone, 2026 is shaping up to be a great year for JLC.

HODINKEE DISCUSSES THE REVERSO OR DECO COCKTAIL

Thursday, 14 May 2026

Hodinkee - which I can’t escape feeling has lost some of its interest in JLC since the 2017 Master Control Sector Dial - published a hands on article about the Reverso Or Deco Cocktail that was visible at the Met Gala. 

Some agreeable observations about the merits of this watch and of debuting these at the wrist of celebrities at the MET Gala. The choice of Tyriq Withers and Finn Wolfhard worked pretty well and the move allowed JLC to get a bit of press ahead of a more official launch in Miami on May 21. Well played.

The Milanese loop that garnered so much praise on last year’s rose gold model looks stunning in white gold and the finely texture white dial looks like a great pairing to create interest in close-up shots. It’s nice to see that JLC knows when it has a hit on its hands, and is not afraid of following through with further models like these elegant variations.

Mark Kauzlarich makes an interesting comment on the ‘cocktail’ denomination and how this concept brings to his mind 1920s gem extravaganza the likes of the gorgeous Reverso Secret Necklace. I see his point but tend to not always interpret marketing twist to litterally, and like that JLC kept it straightforward. What remains impressive is JLC’s ability to launch these novelties - along with the Reverso pop up exhibition in Miami - barely weeks after the avalanche of novelties (including Reversos that must have kept the gem-setting team busy) at Watches and Wonders.

W&W 2026 might have been a Master Control year, but Jérôme Lambert looks like he’s not forgetting the Reverso and is set on continuing to launch novelties at a mind-numbing pace.

Comparing the Merits of the New High Precision Guarantee Hallmark With the 1,000 Hour Control Certification

Friday, 8 May 2026

Getting the precision of your watches certified can be a great way to reassure your prospective buyers that they’re making the right choice with your product. Many brands, at certain points of their history, have made a point of getting part or all of their production certified like Rolex in the mid century or Breitling in 1999.

There are basically two ways to pursue certification :  use a well established program that is recognized as the reference on the market, or create your own “even better than the rest of the market” certification program. The advantage of the former approach is that you’re using a known brand that’s recognizable by all, giving immediate visibility and prestige to your watches. That’s what the Chronometer certification Swiss manufacturers can obtain from COSC offers. The benefit of the later approach on the other hand is your total control of the testing bench, and the possibility to design and promote it as even more stringent than other programs. It allows a shot at aiming for even more differentiation by using your own proprietary test.

JLC chose that later path in 1992 when it launched the 1000 hours control certification along with its modern day platform for round watches, the Master Control. The certification gave something to talk about and establish firmly in the landscape what was a new phase in JLC’s turnaround.

The 1000 hour control was presented at the time as a more thorough testing bench than “the standard test conducted over 15 days at the Neufchâtel Observatory”. JLC boasted: 1000 hours of testing in 6 positions, under various temperatures, while submitting the assembled watch (not just the caliber) to some harsh moves and under significant magnetic fields. And just to put a fine point on it, JLC explained that each watch passing the test received a gold seal on its caseback and the “Master controller” in charge of validating the final result get to appose their signature inside the case of the watch. In substance, the intent was to go above and beyond standard COSC certification - and let there be known to the entire market.

DUAL CERTIFICATION

Fast forward to Watches and Wonders 2026, JLC is following the same playbook while launching the Master Chronometer - except this time, the manufacture is going with COSC testing. Quite the reversal! The benefit is obvious: JLC can call the new collection the Master Control Chronometer, setting it immediately appart from the rest of the Master Control family and giving a clear concept to the watches. But rather than leave it at that and risk the change being perceived as a downgrade, JLC went for a dual certification, reviving its High Precision Guarantee (HPG) hallmark (1). This led some commenters to wonder if this certification  is better - or lesser - than the 1,000 hour control test bench it is replacing.

JLC explains this approach under the header “A renewed commitment to precision and reliability in watchmaking”, introducing at length the new HPG in those terms :

The HPG hallmark is based on a comprehensive assessment, during which each watch is subjected to demanding conditions designed to replicate the rigours of everyday life. Our patent-pending protocol allows performance to be assessed on the basis of four key factors:

  • Altitude: The calibre is tested under a variety of atmospheric pressures simulating conditions ranging from sea level up to 1,004 metres, the altitude of our Manufacture.

On 

  • Multidirectional Impacts: In its case, the watch is subjected to shocks ranging from 25G to 50G, applied systematically across standardised positions, to ensure durability in everyday use.

  • Positions: The movement, once fitted into the case, is assessed through alternating periods of multi-position and fixed-position testing, examining its accuracy in every possible orientation.

  • Temperature: The performance of the watch is analysed under significant temperature fluctuations, ranging from 18°C (simulating a period of rest) to 35°C (representative of periods of activity), ensuring its reliability in a variety of environments

COSC certification is also mentioned in passing: 

Each Master Control Chronometre, in addition to bearing the HPG hallmark, also holds the renowned COSC certification for chronometric precision. This dual certification highlights our dedication to high precision, a key factor when it comes to bearing the title of “Chronometer”.

Last and maybe in an uncommon move, JLC also adds a criteria relating to the sophistication of its finishing: 

The HPG label also aims to be a benchmark for decorative excellence. It indicates that every component of the calibre has been meticulously finished using eight traditional techniques: circular graining, Côtes de Genève, circular smoothing, burnishing, polishing of screw heads, linear smoothing, sinked rubies and bevelling. Drawing inspiration from the legacy of Antoine LeCoultre, we seek to transform functional craftsmanship into a high-quality artistic expression, where even circular graining, once purely utilitarian, can become a sophisticated aesthetic signature.

JLC’s explicative page does not make any comparison with the 1,000 hour control program. 

BEZOS NUMBERS

With this approach, JLC is trying to get the best of both worlds: we’re introduced to a new in-house certification that tries to closely mimic real-life conditions above and beyond the 1,000 programme or COSC certification but at the same time, the manufacture is happy to get along with COSC if just to be able to appose the Chronometer label on the collection. I can’t and won’t fault JLC for trying to breathe a bit of fresh air on a strategy that has been in place for a solid 24 years. Adding an aesthetics dimension to the in-house certification is a nice little touch - after all there’s value in finishing techniques and in this day and age, every little bit helps justifying why a client should pick one watch over another in a given price bracket. It’s a little hard though to say if HPG is just formalizing existing practices (some of which may not otherwise get noticed by prospective buyers) or if HPG is truly adding anything new to the way JLC is currently finishing its calibers.

Somme commenters, noting that the testing for HPG now takes place over 3 days of testing rather than several weeks, seem to assume this makes the whole bench less demanding than the 1,000 hour program and is meant as a way to save on costs. Maybe there’s an economical consideration with the new bench - but on the other hand, why not shorten the whole enterprise if the same result can be achieve in a shorter amount on time? I’m not privy to how many watches JLC has in testing at any one point in time, but I can certainly imagine that reducing the time a watch has to be held in testing from a couple of weeks down to a few days can significantly facilitate the life of the operations department. There’s no harm in that, save maybe for losing the appealingly simple “1,000 hour control” denomination.

The challenge with trying to pitt the new program against the hold is that in both cases, JLC is giving us “Bezos numbers” - measures that sound impressive on their face but are not telling us all that much in actuality. In tech circles, Jeff Bezos has become famous for using impressive  numbers in his presentation (e.g. “our market share has tripled in the past 12 month!”, “this is our biggest growth month ever!”) without providing key context (trippling a 1% market share isn’t exactly the same as tripping a 10% one!). For all the useful details shared about the 1,000 hour program or the HPG certification, JLC has never (to my knowledge) disclosed the tolerance a watch must reach to be certified. This makes any comparison (on precision alone at least) ultimately moot. COSC, by comparison, doesn’t shy away from publishing how many seconds per day a certified chronometer is allowed to have. 

1992 ALL OVER AGAIN

Does it ultimately really matter? Probably not. People don’t buy mechanical or luxury watches for their precision. While boasting excellent precision is one way to distinguish oneself from the competition, these certifications’s primary benefit is that they help tell a story about the product, if not the brand: “we do high quality watches, you can trust our expertise”. Whether a watch is able to work within -4/+6 or -2/+4 seconds per day is a discussion that will interest the purists, but not the general public - the very group of people that can make or break the financial fortunes of a watchmaker. These feeds and speeds don’t matter to the market any more than the clock speed of a mobile phone’s chip in the mobile phone world..  

In the case of JLC, I think the strategy being followed makes a ton of sense - just like the playbook did in 1992.

If you’re going to launch a new collection of watches, having a story to tell (and sell it in the name itself) is good product marketing. When JLC launched the Master Control in 1992, it was establishing its brand new round watch platform and needed something to make it stand out from its aging offering and the general competition. The Master Control was different from the Odysseus, Gentilhomme, Heraïon and Kryos of the day (heck, even different from the more recent Grand Reveil and Geographic) - and that difference was right in the name and in the accompanying 1000 hour control certification.

24 years later, Jerome Lambert is turning to the same playbook, with a twist: the new collection wears its difference right in the name (and this requires using COSC certification) but JLC still wants to communicate its superior manufacturing heritage and is doing so with a new in-house certification programme. I think that’s a smart way to give the new collection a chance to get noticed at launch, while also continuing to honor the core attributes of the Maison as one of the few able to do everything in house. JLC’s motto and reason for existing, all the way to its first family-owned decades, has always been “la montre de qualité”. This dual certification is the latest embodiment of that very idea.

Back in 1992 the manufacture was still in the middle of its turnaround, and the Master Control collection started with one caliber (cal. 889/1) and a grand total of one model (2). Even the contemporary Master Date (notice the subtle difference in name) didn’t start as a Master Control. Within a few years though, other round watches were either abandoned or moved into the Master Control Family (like the geographic, which launched 2 years before the Master Control, or the Gentilhomme reserve de Marche). JLC is in a much healthier position in 2026 and has launched the the Master Chronometer with 3 models (two of them in two metals). It’s unclear for now if this announces a future move of the entire Master Control catalogue into the Master Chronometer name and collection, or if JLC intends to keep its integrated bracelet models a thing of their own. I don’t see it as impossible - a Master Chronometer Geographic (if the caliber can be thinned out enough) would be fun, and a return of the Reserve de Marche in the Master Control catalogue could be imagined (and we already know that the relevant caliber can fit a 9.8mm case!). The good news with the COSC/HPG move is that beyond the performance standards it’s setting, it signals fresh winds at JLC and that can only be good news for la LeCoultre. 

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1: like many other firms, JLC likes to recycle existing brands into completely different things depending on the era. The HPG name was previously used the 70s to signal watches judged particularly precise thanks to a high beat calibre cadenced at 4Hz - a technical achievement for the time.

2: Master Control was launched as ref. 140.840.892 (A) for the stainless steel, leather band flagship version. It came in 5 variations: 3 different metal (stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold) with the stainless steel and yellow gold models available in a rice bracelet variant.

The Master Control Chronomètre Collection

Tuesday, 22 April 2026

If there’s one kind of watch that has exploded in popularity in the past 10 years, it has to be the integrated bracelet sport watch. Both Patek and Audermars have been doing superbly well since the 2010s in no small part thanks to the Nautilus and the Royal Oak - the later becoming somewhat ubiquitous in well-off circles looking for a watch that says “affluent but chill” (hello James Corden). Some brands took notice and came out with their own version - Baume & Mercier reviving the Riviera in 2021, IWC relaunching its Ingénieur in 2023, or even Rolex with its much-acclaimed Land Dweller a year ago.

JLC, all this time, seemed uninterested in this trend, preferring to revive the Polaris or refreshing the Master Control and the Master Ultra Thin ranges. The manufacture did add a metal bracelet to a couple of Master Control models and 3 Polaris references but the end result decidedly felt more tool watch than anything else (more akin to a Seamaster Diver 300M than a Chopard Alpine Aigle).

JLC seemed uninterested, that is, until this week at Watches and Wonder 2026.

A NEW LINE-UP IN THE MASTER CONTROL RANGE

LeCoultre announced a new family of watches called Master Control Chronometer. The new models are an extension of the existing Master Control range rather than their own stand-alone range like Master Ultra Thin. Three watches make the initial line up: a date model, a power reserve model and a perpetual calendar. They are available primarily in stainless steel, with two models (the date and the perpetual calendar) also available in rose gold. The idea seems to have been to test the waters with three models covering the starting point, mid-point and top-end of an entire groupe of watches.

Other sites will cover better than me the feed and speeds of these watches so I won’t spend excessive time on the minute details of these new design, which seem to simultaneously borrow from the Master Control and the Ultra Thin ranges while offering a personality of their own. On the whole, these models strike as elegant and modern. The bracelet - a brand new design - looks refined and certainly not bulky, ideally matching the thinness of the cases. The grey-blue color of the sunburst dial (for the stainless steel models) looks both familiar (borrowed from Ultra Thin ref Q1238480) and dashing, and the thinness of the models, equivalent to the MUT range rather than Master Control models, (8.4mm for the date model, 9.2mm for the power reserve and the perpetual calendar) really contribute to a sharp watch. We’re in a totally different space than with the other metal bracelet models currently offered with the Master Control Calendar ref. Q4148120 (10.95mm of thickness for the case), the Master Control Chronograph Calendar ref. Q4138130 (12.05mm) or the Polaris range (11.97mm at best). JLC went for something much more sophisticated and urban compared to what they currently offer with their other round watches, in my opinion to great effect .

FAMILIAR YET WITH ITS OWN PERSONALITY

What striked me both in visuals published online and while trying some of the models on the day they were released is how they feel fresh in the JLC catalogue even if they draw from existing elements of the brand. That’s most obvious with the date model, which at first brush looks identical to the current Master Control Date save for the new face color (itself lifted from the MUT date ref Q1238480). And yet, looking a little closer, JLC have revisited a number of details: the watch is 38mm (right between the standard 40mm and the more recent 38mm limited edition), a second track was has been added around dial, and the hands (while remaining the Dauphine kind as has the been case since the launch of the Master Control range in 1992) have been subtly redesigned to match the general thinness of the design. The end result is immediately familiar yet made fresh again and gently elevated. The same applies at the top of the range with the perpetual calendar - while the complication is immediately recognizable and uses a variation of the caliber 868 found in the other in other perpetual calendar of the brand, the use of the sub dial and window disposition found on the Polaris Perpetual Calendar on a smaller case and with the grey-blue dial of the Ultra Thin range make for something familiar yet fresh again.

It’s interesting JLC chose to start the range with three models: a time and date at the entry point, a perpetual calendar at the top end, and somewhere in the middle a simple power reserve that does not exist anywhere else (the Polaris range has a similar “middle of the range, two sub-dials only” model but it’s a chronograph complication). That allows JLC to offer a range of models from the get-go rather than a single model without over-extending itself with too many models to design and produce - a strategy similar to what was done in 2018 with the “new”Polaris range. Another advantage is that it leaves space in the catalogue for the two Master Control models with a metal bracelet to continue to exist. I was almost expecting a Master Control Geographic to be the “middle point” model as its such an idiosyncratic model to the brand, but maybe the relevant caliber was too complex or too costly to fit in a slim case, or maybe the complication hasn’t proven sufficiently popular in the Polaris range to justify its inclusion at launch. Regardless of these considerations, the end result is a focused line-up that feels like a welcome addition to the Master Control range - capturing some of the elegance of Master Ultra Thin models while bringing a breeze of fresh air to the Master Control family.

PRICES

Pricewise, the new models sit clearly a notch above the other round stainless watches of the manufacture. The Master Control date, available currently in 36 and 40mm in stainless steel, cost 7,600 and 8,800 CHF respectively: Its chronometer sibling in 38mm retails for 12,100 CHF. That’s a cool 37% difference from the standard 40mm model (and JLC tend to price larger models of a similar watch at a higher price point). The Power Reserve model is offered at 14,600 CHF, which represents a 58% increase compared to its Ultra Thin equivalent available for 9,200 CHF. The increase over the chronometer date is reasonable (+2,600 CHF), but this places the model almost at the same level as the Master Control Calendar (15,300 CHF on a steel bracelet), an arguably more complicated watch. The Perpetual Calendar is offered at 39,100 CHF - a 5,200 CHF uptick compared with the Polaris Perpetual Calendar on a steel bracelet (34,300 CHF). Clearly JLC didn’t design these watches to be priced on par with other existing models, let alone the rest of the Master Control range. These watches are, compared to their peers in the JLC catalogue, markedly more costly.

I enquired about this difference at a boutique, and the associate kindly explained to me that although on paper these watches might seem similar to other existing models, these watches are actually a technological step up, and that comes with additional cost. The calibers used in the date model and the perpetual calendars (cal 899 and 868 respectively) exist in other models but hold different internal serial numbers and have been further enhanced to use fewer components and reach the chronometer certification. The cases, although with similar dimension to the Ultra Thing family, are actual a new design that accentuates the thinness of the chronometers. And there is of course the additional cost of a metal bracelet compared to watches on a leather band or a rubber band. For comparison, adding a metal bracelet to a Polaris models adds about 800 CHF to the cost and adding one to a Master Control adds 1400 CHF. to the price of a leather or rubber band model. The nez bracelet for the chronometer models is more complex to build and comes with a seasonal adjustment mechanism that does not exist on the Master Control models: All this add up to the cost; even if it’s also possible that JLC might have taken a look at the completion from IWC, Chopard and other before landing on the current price tags: One thing that is for sure is JLC has been quite ambitious technologically when designing these new designs from the ground up (rather than use existing component as is), and this unavoidably gets reflected into final price tag.

CONCLUSION

Judging by the buzz on social media and in the watch world, these models seem to have landed well with the press and the community. There seems to be real enthusiasm for this fresh addition to the JLC round watch line-up, a deliveries being already reportedly pushed back to October seem to confirm this good reception: That’s a welcome sign that Jerôme Lambert has a lot of ambition for the brand and came back with a real sense of urgency: I have not been able to obtain firm confirmation, but it seems these models have been Lambert’s project rather than something initiated by his predecessor. If that’s indeed the case (and there are certainly signs of a very quick-paced development, with exhibition models shown at Watches & Wonders with no adjustment mechanism on the bracelet), it’s very impressive to see new management come up with a new family of watch all within a year. For comparison (although admittedly in another era), the first Master Compressor models designed by Magali Metrailler took about two years to develop in the early 2000s. One can only imagine the kind of pressure the current design and fabrication teams must have been under to get the three models ready for Watches and Wonder 2026, but the result was certainly well worth the hard work:

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JEROME LAMBERT SPEAKS WITH LE TEMPS

Wednesday, 18 March 2026

Suisse Romande (think the west third of Switzerland that speaks French) daily newspaper Le Temps published on March 15 an interview with Jérôme Lambert: The interview is in French and unfortunately behind a paywall and a translation with Google Translate or other equivalent services allows getting the gist of it.

No spectacular announcement just a few weeks ahead of Watches and Wonders obviously, but it’s still interesting to see what Lambert has to say about year after his return at the helm of a house he knows intimately.

Two interesting tidbits for me. First: the manufacture seems to be doing well, with everyone working full-time in 2026 once again after some periods in 2024 and 2025 were the company had to reduce the working hours of some of its employees (and their remuneration as a result) to adapt to the reduced demand: This practice is legal (‘Reduction d’Horaire de Travail’ is the official name of the rule) and used in industrial sectors where activity can be cyclical but firing and re-hiring later on qualified workers would pose immense issues in terms of acquired knowledge and time wasted integrating the new recruits: We also learn that the manufacture employs just short of 1,000 people, which combined with those working in marketing and support functions in Meyrin on the Richemont campus is equivalent to the peak of 1,300 employees measured about 15 years ago.

The other interesting part of the interview is that according to Lambert, the correct segmentation of the market is no longer by geography, age or gender but by “affinity”.

If it is a question of analysing the clientele by gender and by generation, it does not seem very new?

This reading is no longer relevant. The culture of affinity is a transversal phenomenon. These are no longer sociological categories or geographical origins, but ways of experiencing watchmaking and maintaining a relationship with the watch.

(…) For a long time, watches were mostly designed according to Western aesthetic references. After the 2008 financial crisis and the fall of Lehman Brothers, market momentum gradually shifted to Asia, resulting in a more marked interest in classic models. Today, we are observing a new evolution, which could be described as "re-urbanisation" of watchmaking: a more knowledgeable, more urban clientele, and particularly attentive to the notions of wear, style and identity..

Lambert goes on to explain that the market is not as homogenous as it used to be and is now much more fragmented, comparing it to a kaleidoscope. Evoking the US market as an example, he no longer sees the territory as a monolithic market but rather as a “multitude of sub-markets”. The good this is that he’s cautious enough to know that the Manufacture can’t pursue every opportunity in the market, and name-checks the successful Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or déco” as an example of the Maison taking creative approach to one of its most classic and respected canvas.